Oneupmanship Journal

Powderhorn.

2012-02-16T18:00:00.000Z

Nice bit of vintage two tone from the OG two tone masters.

Jacket Required.

2012-02-13T16:00:00.004Z

Just been down to that London for the weekend, a weekend which consisted of typical northern tourism in and around our great capital, drinking myself sober in beer filled dimple jars, traveling first class, sleeping in shit hotels, walking way too many miles and visiting the UK's biggest trade show Jacket Required.
This is the second installment of the British menswear tradeshow held in London, whilst not exclusively UK brands it features several of our favourite labels (one or two notably missing) showing their up and coming A/W collections, or Fall as they say in this world of fashion, it was nice to get an insight into how these things work and rub shoulders with some the cream of menswear 'royalty', press and PR peeps and neck some free beer.
Based in a massive open plan warehouse in the lovely surroundings of Bloomsbury, this was a pretty big deal and done really well too, it was good to catch up with loads of people I've only ever really met via the internet but feel like I've known for yonks and finally put some faces to names, plus making one or two new acquaintances I'll hope to work with in the not too distant future too.
The show had a few old favourites showcasing their complete collections such as Universal Works a with another range of classic schmutter, smart shirts and coats, nice colours, patterns and bits of tweed, Garbstore, with a top selection of simple parkas and shirts based around proper old school hiking wear, with great subtle touches and a dead cool logo, BSA/camporee vibes come to mind.
Newer labels which caught my eye were some nice looking bits from Common People, ace hiking shoes from Veras in great shades of suede/nubuk with coloured laces, posh and quirky from Bedwin, some uber smart cycling wear from PEdALED, eco friendly infused shirts and coats from Two Thirds. Tuk Tuk shirts looking good in a variety of hard sourced patterns, fruity is the word. I even noticed one label had done a retelling of one of my favourite and most hard to find coats ever.
Whilst I'm not sure it was frowned upon, I don't think it was encouraged to take photos, so I pretty much kept my G12 tucked in my bag most of the time, people are understandably precious over what gets out with regard to a seasons worth of new product in a show that's pretty much invite only - but it's fair to say polka dots and camo will be surfacing a lot more than they have thus far, plenty of colours on show too, but also a lot more subtle and muted tones in each collection. Hiking boots and high performance outerwear is certainly here to stay for the time being too and again there seems to be more time focused on accessories too, such as the ever growing popularity of socks and bags, talking of accessories I'm not sure if there's something in the air down there but everyone appears to have become short sighted over the last year aswell, if you weren't wearing NHS specs you were the odd one out, come to think of it this screen's looking a bit blurry now actually, I might need an eye test! Good show, enjoyed it.
Thanks to Leila from Spin for sorting things out, shouts out to Laine Kitsu, David Keyte, Carl from Spiv/Dickies, Mark tuktuk and Jazzy from Veras, top guys.

Little White Lies.

2012-02-09T15:56:00.000Z

I subscribe to Little White Lies magazine, it's the coolest read on film there is, with the added bonus of some smashing cover art.

Kamo.

2012-02-06T00:15:00.004Z

Mitchell camouflague parka in reversible heavyweight cotton sateen. I'm far from an expert on military wear but the odd bit of camo often jumps right out at me, geddit? I thought this one was fucking mint.
I really like the Mitchell pattern, as camo's going all in vogue again this style is less mainstream. The double side of 'green leaves' and 'brown clouds' were developed during the Korean war in the 50's for shelters and helmet covers and was used for the USMC in Vietnam.
Once I've repaired a little nick on the hood it's good to go, it's got a nice fade over time too, I'm going to wear it under a bright parka on my next assignment to the paper shop.

Bob & Doug.

2012-02-02T13:20:00.001Z

Yeah, I know these are toys, the big kid (geek) in me occasionally likes an action figure. But only they're not toys, not the sort you'd ever let your offspring play with anyway. Meet Bob and Doug McKenzie, they wear flannel shirts, jeans, chunky shoes, bobble hats and big parkas, bang on trend or so on point as some fashion bloggers would say. They also drink loads and loads of beer. If you're telling me these don't look cool then you're a liar.
You may or may not recognise them from the 1983 Canadian film Strange Brew, one of them is Rick Moranis the other Dave Thomas, I only managed about ten minutes of the film last time I tried it, these though are great, look at all the little details, I'm a sucker for shit like that.

Beaufort.

2012-01-30T10:05:00.002Z

Around the end of last year I nabbed this from everyone's fave auction site, having had half a dozen colours of this coat it's one I never tire of, but I've been after one in this colour for bloody ages. Barbour's timeless Beaufort in Grass green, 'a thing of beauty', 'nice piece' etcetera...

Wasabi Wallabees.

2012-01-27T17:36:00.012Z

Only January and these are quite frankly the shoes of the year, especially the Wasabi colour. Top stuff, what us Clark aficionados have been waiting for.

Minimalist.

2012-01-25T13:30:00.000Z

I think this is quite old but I like it, the idea behind the project was to create minimalist re-designs of well-known international brand packages. Simple is always better. Via Antrepo.

TRiCKETT.

2012-01-23T16:11:00.000Z

Just got a nice little package in the post from my new best pal and future collaborator Iain Trickett, this is an upcoming British label based in the red rose county with an obsession for sporting heritage in particular.This included the classic blue shrink-to-fit tee, gum that smells like my childhood, a very nifty pencil, collectors cards, Lancashire crips and some dead nice hot fudge. Trickett.

Folk.

2012-01-19T20:25:00.001Z

Pink jacket? a pink jacket? ponce! Pink. You sure?
Folk's signature Rainmac in pale red with midnight pockets, not for everyone but I think it's fucking great.

MAN.

2012-01-18T00:15:00.000Z

Clarks Originals S/S 12.

2012-01-16T00:35:00.002Z

Well it's that time of year again folks, with Christmas just gone, we're all feeling dead fat, we've got a wardrobe full of recently acquired sales fodder we're never going to wear...Jack Frost's trying to work his magic outside...but before you know it all the Spring Summer stock is hitting the shelves!
What better time for a bit of blog lovin' and some sneaky peeks into a few of my favourite brands. I could go on and on about Clarks being a classic, an institution, clean lines, crepe soles, wearing them since before they were even invented, blah, blah, blah, everyone else does that, it's boring. Clarks are cool, they saved my life once (true story) so I'm always going to stick with something tried and tested. Notable new releases see the return of the Skiffler, I used to have a pair of Elvis ones (blue suede) many moons ago, the Wallabee in newer guises such as Race and Run and of course the Oi Polloi ones, mega. Classics such as the D Trek, Desert boot in a million styles, some rather fruity, Jink and Natalie and newer releases like the Desert Drift, Preston Desert and Desert Drille which looks like the outcome of a night of passion between a Weaver and a Desert boot. I've even left some of the ladies styles in there for all my female fans out there x.

Yosser.

2012-01-12T13:50:00.005Z

Just found some superb not often seen production/continuity shots of Bernard Hill as Yosser Hughes from the great television drama series Boys From The Blackstuff, 1982.

Recent (Festive) Pickups.

2012-01-07T14:30:00.002Z

Taschen's Complete Kubrick book a bargain from Fopp, superb pics in this, what a dude, I've just nabbed a proper snorkel parka from the States to look just like him. You'll see it soon.

James Bond Nato strap for my old Sea King.

This nifty Polaroid thing for printing off phone pics with added sticker excitement.

A specially painted up Peloton Tour De France man and a Cat's Paw heel keyring via my mucker Rich at the Urban Hunter.

Ferrero Rocher, standard Christmas fodder in this house, 'Eccelente'!
I love these, the ultimate pub snack with a pint, yet they never seem to be available anymore. Don't eat more than one packet though or you'll be feeling sickly.

I got these from Marks and Sparks half price, a nifty card set, diary and notebook using the great photography of unsung hero Terry O'Neill. I love the still of Michael Caine and Bob Hoskins from Mona Lisa, great film, sleazy as fuck.

I can't help but collect odd badges, I've always wanted a Blue Peter badge, used to hate it when I was a kid mind, Grange Hill one day, Byker Grove the other, go and play out when Blue Peter was on though as standard. Check out the vintage Ban the Bomb badges from the CND, aceness.

Lois Jumbo cords, they're a bit like jeggins when you first put them on but still look ok, always time for some corduroy.

Wanted some Diemmes in the sale but they sold out so I got some posh DM's instead. Fruity.

NB 577, first pair of trainers I've bought in absolute yonks, they were surprisingly half price too, love a pair of NB.
Tuk Tuk printed shirt, I like a bit of a psychedelic/grandma's curtains on my shirts, just a hint under a jumper or peeking behind a collar never on it's own though, don't want to look like some c*nt off Top Gear.

Bargain of the month for me was this Silas 'Lord B' jacket, it was less than twenty five quid, well it was actually double that as it was from Japan, but that's what it went for. Like a sensible toned down street wear Beaufort.

The Connoisseur stealth Weir hat, had to nab one of these for myself after we had them specially made for the SAS.

Playboy.

2012-01-05T02:43:00.005Z

Vintage Playboy from 1971 originally cost a dollar, cost a couple of quid forty years on, nice feature on vintage bikes, though they were new then. Bicycles and tits, always a good combo. Nice centrefold too eh?

Happy New Year.

2012-01-01T12:00:00.005Z

Another year over and a new one just begun. Let's hope it's a good one.

Hands off glocks, on smocks.

2011-12-27T12:00:00.000Z

Lessons in cool from the Norwegian Resistance in Anthony Mann's 1965 classic Heroes of Telemark, with Kirk Douglas and Richard Harris if this isn't on telly at some point over Christmas then I'll be damned. I'd wear all this shit, the smocks, the gloves, the polo necks, jumpers and goggles. But not the Schutzstaffel get-up.

2011-12-24T23:12:00.001Z

Criterion.

2011-12-22T17:10:00.054Z

Now I make no apologies for being a film geek, that I am. Over several years I've amassed a decent film collection between myself and my bro, I'm not about to get rid of them all again for the sake of Blu Ray as I did years ago when VHS was sent into the history books/charity shops, I look at my DVDs like people do with vinyl, it's a collection and one it's taken years to build up, most of my films are imports not bog standard three-ninety-nine jobbies from Tesco, though there are a few bargains in there too of course.
Part of this collection - which sits proudly on the top shelf, are the ones on the Criterion label, if you didn't know these are some of the best films you can get, some of the greatest classics, rare indie films and unseen gems are on this label, everything from the film transfer, loads of extras all down to the way it's packaged comes very considered each with their own serial number too.
There's loads more on there I'd like to get and loads still to be released I'm sure, yeah, it's nerdy but I started taking pics, so that's that. Come round, bring some popcorn...

Ghosts of Europe.

2011-12-17T16:14:00.000Z

Superb, yet chilling photo trickery showing the occupation and fightback in both Leningrad and Paris from WW2, via Retronaut.

Barbour Christmas.

2011-12-15T02:36:00.004Z

Saw this earlier today during the pretty hellish hustle and bustle that is a big city centre at Christmas (Bah, humbug!) I thought it was great, the old Raymond Briggs Father Christmas I remember from my childhood all Barbour'd up for their festive season window campaign. He looks cool as fuck.

Recent Pickups.

2011-12-08T00:10:00.000Z

Not done this for a while, few bits over the last couple of months, starting with this mega Topo Designs mini mountain bag, it's the bestest bag I've seen in ages. I'm a bit of a fanny for bags or 'man bags' as some might say and this is just right for all my bits, not too clunky and loads of pockets all over the show. Makes me wish I was back at college.Duck camo anall, bang on trend blah blah, via my good mate the Urban Hunter.

Native Craftworks Dalesman shoe, fancied these for ages but never got around to it, they take me back to some old school seventies trail along a river, in a green cagoule and caramel cords eating cucumber sandwiches in a slight downpour with the smell of cowshit over in the distance or something. Classics that's what I'm trying to say.

The coolest/gayest socks I'll buy all year, I only wear socks that Gyles Brandreth and Timmy Mallet would think are too lairy, always have always will, it's just the kind of guy I am.

Clarks Desert Khan brogue, watched the suede versions of these sell out and then wanted them as soon as they did, these really shouldn't work it's like chalk and cheese, ketchup on tomato soup, brogues and crepe soles? never. They do though, especially in the sales.

I nabbed this Folk alpaca moss stich beanie via The Shed Community, it's like two hats cut apart and stuck together, one a mens, one a woman's, lolz. I like it, I'm going to wear it and pretend to be a bellend.

EG's field shirt, another chambray shirt eh? bit different this, I like the oddball pockets and it has the all important tab collar thing.

I've done two pairs of my fave Ed's in recently, both on the knees, each knee aswell, fuckinell what a c*nt, so snapped these up for knocking around in. I like the yellow selvedge I'm going to team them up with a yellow coat and yellow polo shirt and party like a colour co-ordinated casual like it's 1999.

That Cottonopolis deerstalker I've already mentioned before.

Feels like about ten years ago I got this Supreme ventile parka from a couple of years back, but it was October. I might have to punt this on soon if I eat any more Monster Munch (Flamin' Hot) same colour as the coat.

Connoisseur McMurphy hat, I got these made myself with Highland 2000, then named them in honour of Jack Nicholson's finest hour, a mental patient. There was four colours but they've all gone now, I've not had one off my head since I got 'em.

I also got these Harris Tweed scarves made, coincidentally in the Highlands, or at least by a lovely lady up in the Outer Hebrides. I got my own one cut a bit longer and shorter and nabbed the camo looking houndstooth too, I love 'em, people say it itches, it just acts like velcro with my beardy face.

I also remortgaged my bicycle and got some import magazines full of grown men with toddlers expressions in nice unobtainable clothes, I'm dead fucking trendy me.

Dressers.

2011-11-30T18:02:00.026Z

I recently had a sneak peak at the final proof of the forthcoming Dressers book, this is a book which ties in every aspect of the casual scene from Motherwell's Saturday Service point of view. Whilst many clubs have released books about what they did, who they did, how many people they battered, how many bodies they left lying in the street to the point where you've read one you may aswell have read them all, it gets tiresome and repetitive. This one, like just a few of the others, looks different.
Refreshing and unflinching, backed up by a mine of great photos spanning thirty years, cuttings, memories and personal belongings this tells the tales that should be told, the days out, the music, the drugs, the trips and all the gear by the small Scottish club who made a real impact on this much chastised and often understood British working class subculture. Motherwell's 80's mob with their Burberry checks and backperms were one of the original point of reference for me, the dressing up, then the dressing down, not just word of mouth and sozzled recollections, real memories thankfully captured on old cameras, my old squire Kerso with more trainers than God, who seemed to have kept his own personal museum of designer labels too an authority on the scene if ever there was one.
Whether you're an older head who was there, saw it and got the t-shirt, or a young pup in it for the right reasons, carrying on the tradition, not because you saw a couple of films and now think you're Bex Bissell mk II, you'll know what it means or meant to be part of that special thing football brought us. The buzz, the camaraderie, the belonging, the discovery of new things first, or at least in your own mind, taking risks, the thrill, the chase, the highs and the lows, excitement, nervousness and panic, giving chase or giving legs, getting all dolled up to go to places like fucking Doncaster and Hartlepool because on that day that's all that mattered. Only if you've been there will that last statement not sound in any way ridiculous.
Scheduled for a Dec 12 release pre-order it here, there's a cool trailer here, Kerso's clobber. Saturday Service, One Step Beyond.

Elementary.

2011-11-29T17:45:00.007Z

If there was ever a hat I just had to have then it was this one from Cottonopolis. I've already got a few deerstalkers but I've never seen a corduroy one done before. I'm glad the witch has got her tits out right now too so I can actually wear it out.

The Shed Community.

2011-11-25T18:58:00.010Z

As featured a while back, a bit of a plug for localish store Shed, now into it's third year of trading, this is a smart store situated in Ashton-Under-Line with a decent well selected product range from classic British labels like Barbour and Folk to Universal Works, Heritage Research and brands from further afield such as Carhartt, Obey and Lacoste. Shed has now launched it's online home too, with some nice artwork from our pal illustrator Peter O'Toole, check it out: The Shed Community.

This is The End.

2011-11-22T13:00:00.000Z

Take a trip down memory lane with the original Fanzine in deluxe book form. The first run has all but sold out already, but it's in for a second print grab it here.

UVU.

2011-11-18T12:35:00.000Z

Another first look, I like the look of this, Gatley's finest Dominic Stansfield's next creation is UVU Extreme Craftsmanship. Designed in conjunction with the KTC factory in China, who have been making premium outerwear and technical sportswear for three decades. With a collection at the forefront of garment technology this is one to look out for. UVU.

Rohan, a blast from the past.

2011-11-16T20:11:00.031Z

Rohan's a cool brand, there's plenty of their stores in towns and cities up and down the country and it's one of the old reliable go-to-guys for all your outdoorsy needs, whether you're a full on hiker, camper or just trying to stay dry on an outing to Sincil Bank or Vale Park. Perhaps even overlooked as anything at all trendy or hip, Rohan's just that though, I like Rohan. I've had a few of their coats pass through here over the years, the Pampas being a personal fave and a bit of a classic amongst a select few. They also did a spot-on proper mountaineer jacket some years back, reversible, down jacket on one side bright orange on the other, something you'd happily nip off to the arctic in and know you'd be sound, the Tundra? or something.
Founded in 1972, Rohan has been there seen it done it, makes great gear and avoids fashion and all the blingy nonsense of the modern day, their ethos, not my words. It's good old school functional wear at it's best, it's a proper British hiking brand to be proud of.
Whilst some of these old brochures and catalogue shoots are pretty damn striking even to this day, other bits look straight out of an eighties porno mag, you'd be forgiven for thinking one or two of the below pictures would see that couple at it in the next spread, guffaw! That's if you can still turn the pages, lols. Ok, enough already. Hiking, biking, sportswear, boots and nice jumpers are all the things we steal from and adopt and adapt, Rohan has it in abundance. Look out for a collaboration collection with 6876 in early 2012.

OF all the businesses set up in Yorkshire’s back bedrooms, living rooms or sheds, few can have had as tangled or as emotional a history as Rohan Design. In the nearly 40 years since it was founded by a young couple around a kitchen table in Skipton, it has seen moments of marital happiness, commercial innovation and rapid growth as well as separation and tragedy. Throughout it all Sarah Howcroft, who set up the business with her husband, Paul, has been there and her love for the Rohan remains undimmed. Together the couple developed a new look in outdoor clothing, with the heavy tweed and wool breeches worn by walkers a thing of the past.
Rohan’s lightweight and waterproof designs becoming the essential gear for everyone, from the Sunday stroller to the extreme climber, and their jackets were worn by mountaineer Peter Habeler when he made the first ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen in 1978. Throughout this up-and-down history, Mrs Howcroft’s attachment has remained constant, despite the fact she and Paul were forced to sell the business, after Black Monday wiped out plans for a flotation in 1987. The banks got cold feet and the couple opted for an outright sale to Clarks. Since then it has changed hands again, and for a period was backed by venture capital and private equity, before chairman Colin Fisher took control in 2007.
After improving the product range, simplifying its management set-up, restructuring its balance sheet and converting £4.3m of loans into equity, today’s owners have been credited with preserving its identity. Rohan’s difficulties did not immediately vanish, however. Like many other retailers it was hit by the recession and it made a £400,000 operating loss in 2007.
Now it is growing again. Mr Fisher, today the executive chairman, steered it to a £384,000 operating profit last year and took turnover to £17.9m, up from £15.7m in 2009. It expects to turn over £28m this year on the back of like-for-like growth, store openings and increased internet sales. Rohan is no longer based in Yorkshire but is still has a presence here with stores in Leeds, Harrogate, York, Beverley, Shipley and Long Preston. It has 61 nationwide and plans to take this to 81. Today Sarah Howcroft is more than just an interested spectator. She runs Rohantime, a website dedicated to the brand which allows customers to exchange views as well as carrying news of branch openings, outdoor events and a flashback to garments past.
"We are harnessing all those old emotions and the real values of the company and what the customers feel about the company," she said.
They had moved to Skipton in the 1970s after meeting in Scotland. They chose the market town because it was close to the textile industry in West Yorkshire, the cotton mills of Manchester and the hills of North Yorkshire and the Lake District. Both were in their early twenties and Mr Howcroft had given up his job as a research chemist so he could play a part in the enterprise. The couple only had capital of £70 but it was enough to give them a start, even if it meant living hand-to-mouth. "There was no loan capital in those days for start-ups," Mrs Howcroft, said.
"In the early years we ate cheese rolls and very little else. We had no money at all but our enthusiasm and passion flooded it."
They found a small house which they were able to buy for £1,000 and set about bringing modern designs and materials into their field. Nylon began to be used more widely and brought in a series of then radical ideas, such as stretchy climbing breeches in blue and green with black knee patches.
Some of the firm’s designs caused a stir in the traditional world of walking and climbing but, in 1980, Sarah explained her approach to the Yorkshire Post, saying: "Just because the clothes look good doesn’t mean to say they are not practical."
Article by Peter Edwards originally posted on Yorkshire Post. Catalogue and archive images via Compass.

Lions led by Donkeys.

2011-11-11T09:00:00.000Z

Spare a thought, hold that thought, don't use it for political gain, don't use if for blinded bigotry, just remember how it was and how it might have been. Remember the sacrifice, remember the horror. Remember all the Sons, Brothers, Fathers, Uncles, Grandads and Great Grandads who never made it. Remember...

Wallabee.

2011-11-10T01:26:00.000Z

An exclusive first look at the Clarks Wallabee for Manchester's Oi Polloi, available 2012, I won't bang on about how cool Clarks are and how they've always been there for me, especially this model, but they are just that and these two natty new colours - light tan and pale green, are something I need in my life. OK, I don't need them, but I sure as hell want them.

Goodfellas.

2011-11-08T23:49:00.003Z

On the rare occasion one of the greatest films ever made (tonight it is the greatest film) hits the big screen, I'm there. Just watched a showing of Goodfellas, fucking hairs standing up on the back of your neck great.

Engineered.

2011-11-04T13:40:00.001Z

Few weeks back I got hold of the recently released Engineered Garments Anorak, or smock, I really like this, it looks better across the shoulders than it does on a hanger too, not half as blocky looking. It's a great lighter weight jacket you can bung over a shirt and jumper combo and still get away with most of the year. I think it's a really nice shade of green too.

I also picked up the Pea jacket from earlier in the year, I'm not normally a fan of double breasted jackets but this one seems to work for me, I love the collar variations on this one, classic naval steez.

LED.

2011-10-31T00:35:00.001Z

Easily pleased, me.

Lofgren.

2011-10-27T00:21:00.004+01:00

That's right, as you can see from the box Mr Miyagi sender me this. Pph.
Seems like an age since I ordered it, but it finally arrived, a delay largely thanks to those pesky customs folk/twats. Worth the wait though, John Lofgren is a label still off the radar for many, but really nice stuff, concentrating on high quality traditional garments and as good as anything in the top shops over here. I've already got a Salt and Pepper Railroad shirt and a cap and could easily get more.
This polka dot hunting vest is something I'll wear a lot over the coming months, the details are super. I'm going to look like someone from Boardwalk Empire right up until spring. Maybe.

Bugaboo.

2011-10-24T09:35:00.000+01:00

These amazing pics look like a modern day shoot for a trendy brands look-book or brochure, there's a real timeless cool about it which it's not hard to see where a lot of today's stuff takes it's influence. These pics originate from 1958 would you believe it.....cooler than Tracy Marrow's iced tea.

I love the smell of Goretex in the morning.

2011-10-20T17:00:00.003+01:00

I like getting parcels from across the pond, especially when it's the fruits of yet another insomniac punt on their version of eBay. If I want something enough I'll outbid anyone and everyone to get it, or at least try, that happened here and I probably paid a bit more than I'd have liked to as a result, but I'm quite happy with this lot.
I'm aware of the fact that this is about the fifteenth orange parka I've had and it is going a bit too far, but why change a winner? especially when it's a nice example of some early Goretex in as good shape as it was new. This Banana Equipment one is a kind of tomato soup complexion and has one of those bellend shaped grown-on hoods, but once on it looks coolio. I love the peeled banana press studs and the tag of this one, 'Products with A Peal'. Nice simple jacket with pockets where you want 'em and the perfect layer for the abysmal current weather.

Next up from the same chap some Tropical Combat 'Nam trousers, something I've been after for a while, these are totally mint and unworn and dating from 1967 too in a cotton poplin ripstop, they have a nice action on the waist for getting to fit too. I can't wait to play army in them. If I had the money and the space I'd buy loads more of this stuff.

Slinkachu.

2011-10-17T22:00:00.000+01:00

As I've probably said before, I love shit like this. I wonder if it's still there right now? in the dark, I hope so. Little People.

Good Morning Campers.

2011-10-14T00:44:00.019+01:00

How smooth are this lot? these guys bypassed school and just climbed instead, they were too cool for it. Italian mountaineer and outdoor pioneer Ricardo Cassin and his crew at Cassin Ridge, Alaska in 1961. AAC Cassin.

Proper # 11

2011-10-08T17:23:00.007+01:00

Finally, the next installment of Proper Magazine is out, an honest look at good clobber, music, food and lots of other stuff by folk who just enjoy it without all the fannying around you get nowadays, look for it amongst the other stuff on the shelves, a proper magazine.

Alpine.

2011-10-07T01:16:00.005+01:00

The American Alpine Club, Mt. McKinley West Rib First Ascent. 1959.

Crescent Down Works.

2011-10-04T22:07:00.005+01:00

Just took delivery of this nice coat from Seattle clothiers Crescent Down Works - the Montagne 60/40 parka, arguably the last thing I need right now is another mountain parka but it's not going to be the last I buy I know that much, I like the colour and the contrasting super orange lining, Made in the USA too, if itreally matters? a nice piece as some might say.

Indian Summer.

2011-09-29T14:16:00.016+01:00

So, I'm sat there pondering another winter jacket, jumper or hat, yet it's like Corfu outside. WTF.

Drive.

2011-09-26T21:19:00.025+01:00

This might just contain spoilers. Not long back from watching the much talked up new film Drive, directed by Nicholas Winding Refn who brought us The Pusher Trilogy and Bronson (2008) Drive stars Ryan Gosling (Half Nelson 2006, Lars and the Real Girl 2007) though it was his role as a skinhead nazi thug who just so happened to be Jewish in 2001's The Believer where I first saw him.
Drive is a pulp style thriller centered around cars and car chases in the same vain as old school style erm, drive 'em ups. Adapted from the novel by James Sallis, Drive sees a part-time stuntman (Gosling) who moonlights as a getaway driver with a strict five minute window, he's a loner, chewing on a toothpick for the duration, a great driver but a bit of a dark horse, he befriends a local lass; a single mother who's partner is due to be released from prison with an ensuing shitstorm to follow. Carey Mulligan is the love interest and a little miscast if you ask me, she reminds of them Sasha dolls my sister used to play with many moons ago, shy and a tad awkward with her frump and sensible hair, she doesn't strike me as the sort of girl who'd date a wrong 'un. But date a wrong 'un she did and meeting and falling for her turns our anti hero into a bit of a psychotic avenger in this slow starting, fast burning and at times sickly violent LA love story.
With remnants of Bullit (1968) and Thief (1981) and car chases nearly as good as To Live and Die in LA, I enjoyed this one, though I couldn't get as carried away as the critics and festivals have, nor not nearly as excited as the boy who tore my ticket who applauded me for my choice of afternoon filmage, I guess it's better than that Inbetweeners shat he'd probably been admitting people into all day. Maybe boy racers and petrol heads would get more of a kick out of the central action sequences? I dunno, it's not to say it didn't float my boat, it was decent. I was also looking forward to seeing a bit more of the buxom Christina Hendricks (Mad Men's Joan) upon seeing her in the trailer, but I was wanting more tits and ass than seeing her head blasted all over a motels grubby mirror. As the driver tries in vain to help a rather tense situation, it turns into a rather big fuck up, with bodies left right and in the elevator, and mobsters on the war path, with Albert Brooks playing the baddie more than convincingly and Hellboy himself as a Jewish pizza flipping bad motherfucker, you're left with a very decent and at times tense and blood curdling thriller, shot really perfectly with a nice haunting soundtrack, but I personally thought it was ever so slightly lacking some of the amazing plaudits I've read myself. 3/5

American hikers in Yorkshire.

2011-09-23T19:59:00.000+01:00

If you're going to come over here with all your posh LL Bean and Jansports on, at least remember the Alamo eh?

Serpico's hat #2.

2011-09-20T16:40:00.012+01:00

Remember the other week when I posted about getting a repro of Serpico's coolest hat? we'll today I received another this time fashioned from tweed with a great quirky patterned fabric to line it. Hand made by a lovely lady in not far from New York. I'm going to fold this one up and pretend to be Popeye Doyle whilst nipping to the shops.

Aloha!

2011-09-17T01:35:00.002+01:00

Trust me to get into Hawaiian shirts as soon as summer disappears, they are fucking cool though eh? you don't need me to tell you that right? wait, come back...
Worn by heroes and villains alike, the 'Aloha' shirt or Hawaiian to most of us, is a classic garment - featuring anything from flowers, leaves and trees to people, places and vehicles. Pioneered by textile industrialist Alfred Shaheen who helped bring them to a new American market as their popularity grew massively post World War Two when the rich and famous chose them for summerly leisure and formal wear. Now with a loyal following, originals have become much sought after items fetching a pretty penny.
From the top: Goodfellas' Jimmy and Henry, Clarence Worely in True Romance, The Goonies' Chunk, Ken Wahl will grow into his in The Wanderers , De Niro in Cape Fear, Nicolas Cage in Raising Arizona, Pulp Fiction's Tim Roth, Pacino in Scarface, Magnum PI and Blue Hawaii starring Elvis Presley.Police Academy 5 and Weird Al Yankovic would have been a bit too much, even for me.

New York City in the 40's.

2011-09-13T23:50:00.014+01:00

I love stuff like this. Spotted elsewhere on the web - some fantastic original photographs of the Big Apple taken in the 1940s by Charles W. Cushman, the colour snaps were taken on Kodachrome taking in such sights as the Manhattan skyline. Brooklyn Bridge and Liberty Street Ferry.

Kill List.

2011-09-09T19:19:00.002+01:00

*As usual it could contain one or two spoilers. Kill List is a rare breed in this day and age, a genuinely decent British horror film. Ben Wheatley's second feature is far more assured than his debut Down Terrace which despite being made for peanuts in mere weeks, which is always commendable of course; was as far as I'm concerned pretty poor stuff despite the plaudits and praise bestowed upon it. Anyway my point being Kill List has had more of the same treatment, nothing but favourable reviews, this time though it's fully justified.
The first I noticed of this film was an intentionally vague black advert in Little White Lies' last issue, just the title and a bunch of rave reviews reeled me in and I did a bit of searching on google to see what it was about. Neil Maskell who will be familiar to many as being Danny Dyer's fat pal Rod in The Football Factory (2004) and thus appearing in various of the samey Saturday night straight to dvd fodder 'geezer' films with all their gangland/violent ensembles that tended to follow that one like the plague.
He's actually chalked up a long list of films including smaller roles in the excellent Nil By Mouth (1997) and the sleazy but decent Tony (2009) but here, he's the lead and is actually thoroughly decent as Jay a husband and father living the comfortable, suburban life - albeit out of work for the last 8 months thoroughly tormented by his past. That being a former soldier turned hired-hit man suffering from post traumatic stress from the career chosen and more-so the last job in Kiev that clearly didn't go too well.
Early on we're shown his wife (MyAnna Buring) is fed up, finally the money has ran out, when the booze flows so does the domestic disagreements! It's time for more work and reluctantly he knows it. His partner Gal (Michael Smiley) whom you'll remember best as the bike messenger raver 'Tyres' in Spaced, tells him he's been offered a kill-list of new targets and they duly accept meeting up with a strange and mysterious employer who insists on sealing the deal with blood straight from a knifed gash to Jay's palm.
Soon they are off on the road living out the Alan Partridge lifestyle in the hotels and travelodge's, both are seemingly likable chaps, however it soon shows when it's time for business they are both ruthless and execute their job (pardon the pun) with extreme efficiency. As it goes on it's clearly becoming a tormenting time for Jay who starts to show emotion and less professionalism with the kills, especially as the victims seem to be somehow grateful. Thus some brutal, graphic violence ensues (the sort that would be cut out indefinitely under the old BBFC regime) I'm not really the mega-squeamish type but seeing a head caved in with a hammer was a bit much, I'd have looked away had it gone on a second longer. Soon he starts to want out as each time bizarre circumstances seem to leave him more and more baffled, he starts to worry about his family so try's to get out of the contract but is told bluntly what would happen if he does and is handed another list. Here after a few hints and oddments throughout; the film gradually takes a darker leap to the final chapter building up some unbearable and unsettling tension all the time, we're now fully in a horror film and the final act is one which will be likened to the Wicker Man with an ending that will leave you disorientated, baffled and definitely uncomfortable in your seat.
Kill List is a triumph of film making mashing the genres and emotions like few others and even more when you consider the micro-budget involved in getting it made. Put it this way, there was probably less than ten people in the cinema yesterday afternoon, but not one of them got up to leave until the lights came back on. Kill List

Smock.

2011-09-06T19:12:00.002+01:00

I started getting all mililtary vibes a few months back, I dunno what caused it really, watching old war films, especially anything 'Nam era really grabbed my attention again, I seem to watch even closer as I get older, developing more of an appreciation for the garments on show now too. What can I say? I like to mix it up a bit, old and the new. Every season you'll see inspiration from past army garbs in every collection, it's not hard to see why.
Sometimes I just have to nab something that catches my eye and this old French smock was just that. Likely as old as the 50's, probably ventile (you can tell I'm not a collector of this kind of tackle) I just thought it was really smart. Looking forward to running through the woods with a big stick under my arm pretending to be Charlie Sheen come winter.

'BEAT A STORM'

2011-09-05T10:35:00.003+01:00

I don't know what it's like near you? but it's persisting down here. Great! The coolest cag you'll see all week available from this morning - Connoisseur 'Beat a Storm'.

Keitel, Kotto and Pryor.

2011-09-01T00:00:00.005+01:00

In Paul Schrader's Blue Collar (1978), a tale of friendship, family, corruption, betrayal, blackmail, murder. "They pit the Lifers against the New Boys, the Young against the Old, the Black against the White, everything they do is to keep us in our place!"

EG Bike jacket.

2011-08-30T23:45:00.000+01:00

About time I finished a load of these draft posts I started doing a bit ago really. I got hold of this a few months back in readiness for the shitty weather ahead, it's something that caught my eye this time last year when NYC's finest Engineered Garments launched their wintery schmutter on us. Teamed with matching tweed pantaloons and a bag and top hat, it was a bit too Dickensian looking even for me. But taking the jacket out on it's own it's a class piece as they say. I never thought I'd own it as it was dead expensive, seen how much it is on Yoox now? Crivens.
I've always searched for the perfect tweed jacket - a mix of classic and modern and something hooded. Not sure if it's just that, but it's pretty damn close, herringbone, elbow patches, throat tab, ace hand warmer cuffs, arse pocket, detachable hood. Looking forward to nipping to shops on old Eddy in this bastard.

Heritage Research A/W 11.

2011-08-25T16:00:00.000+01:00

A further look at some of Heritage Research's A/W collection. Some lovely items for what I'll always say is the best time of the year. The good folk at Heritage Research have come up trumps with this collection, a great variety of reworked classic garments with Ivy League, Aviation and the US Civil War playing a big part. The Nantucket and Railroad jackets are a personal fave, the staple Longline parka is looking good again too. Cooler than Bill Murray bowling.

The Guard.

2011-08-23T12:45:00.034+01:00

Saturday gone I watched the Guard. I love going to the pictures, but I'm a bit of a fussbag when I do go, it has to be said. I don't get in like dead early, but early enough to catch the 'coming soons' and get a good seat - which at this place is the small back row consisting of just four. So it does get on my tits when despite an ocean of seats around me someone comes in and plonks themselves in the seat directly next to me, not leaving that one in between us empty, but next to me. Knowing it'll be dark in a minute or two it makes me feel ever so uneasy, so off to the row in front I go.
Also, why do folk laugh at adverts really over enthusiastically? adverts you and I see on the normal telly every night. Adverts that are not funny. Anyway rant over, if I was to mention the old biddies who came in five minutes into the film and treated it like a cafe rather than a cinema you'd probably think I was a right miserable old cunt. So I won't. So, yeah, I watched the Guard on Saturday, enjoyed it.
The Irish do independent cinema pretty well, by that I don't mean the Commitments, I mean stuff like Intermission (2003), I went Down (1997), The Butcher Boy (1997) and The Van (1996) . The Guard stars Brendan Gleeson the Emerald Isle's answer to Bobby De Niro as the small town old fashioned police Sergeant Gerry Boyle, an oafish supposedly dumb copper with a penchant for booze, confiscated drugs and the odd whore on his day off, a character who's been likened to the Big Lebowski's Dude because of his carefree/careless attitude and as anti-hero as Cage's Bad Lieutenant.
The influx of a huge drugs smuggle fronted by the Irish Jimmy Corkhill (Liam Cunnigham) through the normally quiet town of Connemara sees the arrival of the FBI spearheaded by Don Cheadle who's take-no-shit Agent Wendell Everett clashes with Boyle and his perhaps rather ridiculous old fashioned attitude from the off, but as the coke deal cracks on the two opposites form an unlikely partnership in order to combat it leading to an eventual action packed climax. Hilarious in parts and filled with great one liners, part Father Ted, part Lethal Weapon the film jumps across genres and cleverly leads up to and then quickly away from the predictable usual cop drama, perhaps Boyle isn't as dumb as he first appears.

Max Cady.

2011-08-19T12:45:00.000+01:00

Cape Fear (1991) 'I don't know whether to look at him or read him...'.

First Look - Pica Post # 2

2011-08-16T09:20:00.013+01:00

I was quite content with what I've got at the moment, happy with my lot. Just a new pair of cords and a jumper would probably suffice this year. Then Oi Polloi come along with the second installment of their fancy little Pica Post #2 showcasing loads of lovely forthcoming stock to hit the Thomas St store. As always, for me and I'd imagine many others, Autumn/Winter is the best time of year for clobber, it's all parkas, heavy jumpers, cords and shoes, I love it.
There's plenty to start obsessing about - from another collaboration with Norse Projects to the hotly anticipated in house brand Cottonopolis, which from the early hints I've seen of this it looks good. Once again, this features some super illustrations from Ben Lamb, a review of a buying trip to Japan and an in depth guide to shrinking denim via the Irish sea.

Serpico's hat.

2011-08-13T13:27:00.016+01:00

I've mentioned before how cool I think Al Pacino's portrayal of Frank Serpico is, the trendiest hippy copper ever. One thing that grabbed me was one of his many hats, the white bucket hat being my favourite. It's different to the usual type, narrow, longer, something good to hide under and something you should only really wear with a beard. Whilst searching for one I gathered this is probably just a sailor's cup hat turned down on itself. I finally found someone who made these by hand over in the US, a little more advanced than the sailor hat, customised for a better fit. I already love it.

Keds.

2011-08-10T12:38:00.010+01:00

I like these, Keds Booster by Mark McNairy. Like what Ray Brower might have worn if he'd ever made it to college. Smart.

Caskateers.

2011-08-07T18:45:00.000+01:00

A pale ale pilgrimage in the 2008 Capital of Culture, Liverpool. Friendly locals, lovely ladies, great old school boozers, nice pies too.

Polyveldt.

2011-08-02T15:00:00.004+01:00

I recently got hold of these deadstock Clarks Polyveldts. Something you won't see many of these days, complete with the Rambler man on the rear, or bank robber as some might say in sunnier climes, half seam on the upper and handy pocket on the side. So cool even the mutt likes 'em.

Men of Action.

2011-08-02T13:52:00.013+01:00

This is pretty cool, for Men's Health September issue, several brands recreated bits from their current collections to Action Man scale. Each figure is currently being auctioned off on eBay in aid of Help the Heroes too.

The Rig Out IV.

2011-07-26T12:00:00.003+01:00

A look at the latest installment of GK and co's The Rig Out, this issue takes in the sights of Milan, New York, London, Nairobi, and Morocco, with nice shots of clobber from Stone Island, Woolrich Woolen Mills, Clarks Originals, and Engineered Garments. With a cover designed by John Squire too.

Getting Shirty.

2011-07-23T00:05:00.001+01:00

I'll be going out tomorrow in a shirt I designed myself, that's a pretty cool thing to say eh?
I'm chuffed to say these new premium shirts from the Connoisseur brand are available to buy now, three styles, The Dexys - a classic gingham button check, The Seaton - a nice woven check and the Union - a chambray shirt with loads of fine details. I over saw every aspect on these maintaining they were made the right way from an original sketch on a notepad to how we marketed them with the three cool cats (above) getting their poses just right.
Manufactured in Europe, each shirt is fairly limited, there's lots of influence from a personal archive of shirts I own both old and new from all over the globe gone into these. The fit is pretty contemporary, they are a really nice flattering fit and quality has not been compromised, premium is not just a buzz word for trying to sell them, they are really good schmutter, I'm proud of what we've done, here's to the next step.

Tantum.

2011-07-21T14:34:00.005+01:00

I know I've only got one bonce, but there's always room for a new titfer. I got this Tantum 'Endless War' hat yesterday, something that caught my eye a couple of months ago so I snapped one up from End. Made in LA and cool enough to attract the local wildlife.

Vice.

2011-07-18T21:56:00.012+01:00

This morning I took delivery of the Vice 10th annual 2011 photo issue, featuring 39 different photographers contributing their own photo essay. They said the cover was scratch and sniff and I thought they were taking the piss, they weren't. Those different coloured back-sides walking up a mountain all pong of various things, from banana to coffee, cherry to marijuana. Viceland.

Crazy street art.

2011-07-17T17:32:00.001+01:00

I love shit like this, giant optical illusions by German artist Edgar Mueller.

GIFs.

2011-07-13T00:00:00.001+01:00

Is it just me, or are there loads of dead good gifs on the net these days?

Recent Pick-ups

2011-07-11T17:05:00.015+01:00

Woolrich Woolen Mills' Trail Parka in gold, the parka of the season they all said? maybe so at 60% off, perfect for the current weather and it'll work later in the year too.

Post O'Alls Sweetbear jacket, like a really posh pyjama top, with pockets right where you want them, smart.

Lofgren Railroad shirt in Salt and Pepper with mint details and selvedge, a cool label via the East.
Levis 505's, I needed some jeans which looked like they'd been worn for yonks, maybe it's an indigo backlash? maybe I just fancied some 'Dad' jeans.

A nice Floral/Paisley shirt from Ralph L.

The EG mountain parka from around 2009, I've got this in powder blue, one of my faves, so couldn't resist snapping it up in beige when it saw it going very reasonably.

Some more shades from Sunpocket for the summer and a handy Supreme stash pouch I might dangle off my belt loop and wiggle from time to time.

Garbstore Men Who Did sweat, featuring probably the only tory it's OK to like. Sales eh?

Operation Sepals - the CIA in Norbotten.

2011-07-07T22:32:00.025+01:00

Five years ago, Norwegian Roger Albrigtsen found a bag full of photographs from the war that his Grandfather had stashed. With photographs and some old notes in hand Roger began to unravel a virtually unknown operation which included some of the worlds greatest secret spy organizations.
From 1943-1944 a tale of of top-secret espionage in the snow, along the Swedish-Norwegian border. Found via my friends at Our Culture. Lars Gyllenhaal.

Nathan Clark.

2011-07-05T15:42:00.014+01:00

As an avid Clarks fan it's hard not to mention the original Clarks Commando. The Great Grandson of Clarks founder James Clark down in their Somerset base, Nathan Clark. Working for Clarks he had an eye for detai, he cut his teeth at Queens college in Oxford via Odenwaldschule in Germany. After taking time out to take on Franco in the Spanish civil war he then served in Burma and North Africa during WWII where he first discovered and eventually tweaked, the perfect desert boot, what is now arguably Clark's most famous and timeless offering. Not to mention helping make suede become something us here in blighty would happily wear on our feet.
"Nathan Clark understood what few did - that the fighting kit of the wartime allies could become popular as peacetime leisurewear"
Nathan Clark, shoemaker, originator. 1916 - 2011.
The Guardian, Oi Polloi blog.

Born to Kill.

2011-06-29T20:45:00.000+01:00

Mesh.

2011-06-25T15:40:00.002+01:00

Summer is a bummer, unless I'm paddling through the sea in sunnier climes or clocking peaches on the beaches I'm not overly arsed with it, if it's not wasps in my pint, I'm sneezing like a cartoon cat. I like a nice wasted afternoon/evening in the beer garden as much as anybody though. I also like a nice simple function in my wares and this summer you could do a lot worse than going commando in some nice, cool mesh shoes.

Generic Surplus, borstal mesh, from LA's back to basic sneaker brand - perfect for kicking in the goolies.

Vera, 'meshpadrilles', perfect for a Spanish stroll/walk down Newport Beach.

Gordini, the Grandaddy of mesh shoes, quite literally, like something out of a Sunday supplement, yet cool as fuckery with a pair of cords and a walking stick, just kidding.

Laith McGregor.

2011-06-22T23:15:00.015+01:00

This is genius, even at school I insisted on a fineline pen, I hated writing with a Biro, even now I'd rather not, I find them dead messy, the idea of drawing such fine art with one seems pretty insane. But these great works of art by Australian artist Laith McGregor are all done in simple Bic biro on paper, and often with an odd beardy man theme. I think it's great.
”I like the idea that biros are such a commodity,” the artist says. “Everyone uses them on a daily basis, but not too many people draw with them”.
Laith McGregor. Sullivan + Strumpf More of the same.

USMC.

2011-06-19T18:10:00.005+01:00

Maybe it's because I've just watched a load of 'Nam films recently but I love shit like this at the moment. Whilst the heritage and workwear thing can occasionally take a beating by those in the industry, people like myself just like it if it's cool and want to wear it. Military inspired stuff is certainly seeping through right now and I'm sure there's a lot more to come next season.
The authentic and original here though, a selection of standard issue utility uniform and a few captured NVA items too - like the bush hat, belt, canteen and rucksack. Named to and worn by a one 'J.E. Latino' of G Company, 2nd Battalion, 4th Marines. USMC circa 1964-66.
Pics shamelessly nabbed from sgt.hulka, similar vibes here: M-sixty Fivers.

Book of the day.

2011-06-16T19:35:00.005+01:00

This dead old Penguin book by Stephen Potter taught me everything I know today, it didn't really. But it's pretty cool innit? 'Being some Account of the Activities and Teaching of the Lifesmanship Correspondence college of One-Upness and Gameslifemastery' seems to be the gist of it, cool illustrations too. Thanks to Mark from Proper for the find.

London Called.

2011-06-14T00:05:00.000+01:00

Some pics from an eventful weekend down in the capital, a place I'll never tire of visiting. My calves are aching like fuckery and my bladder's taken a bit of a hiding, but it's all good fun. Met some good pals, took in plenty of sights, smells and sounds - including the Tate modern as you can see. Don't think you're allowed a camera in there but everyone else was papping away. Culture vulture, me.

Urban Hunter.

2011-06-08T13:00:00.002+01:00

I recently acquired some smart new cycling accessories from my good man Richard at Urban Hunter. Doesn't matter if you're into riding a bike or not, they all look good and suit any occasion.
We'll start off with this cool musette bag by iL Soigneur - crafted out of original vinyl banners from the Manchester Velodrome's World Cup classics in February just gone. Weather resistant, with colour co-ordinated press stud fastening and a reflective hi viz side tab, with the strap made from World Champs webbing, each one is one of a kind really.

Now onto hats, there's always room for a nice titfer, this one is cool. Brown corduroy Engineers cap by Lofgren of Japan who make some nice classicly inspired schmutter.

Finally some more cycling caps from Shaun Deller of Recyclist Apparel, cyclist, hat maker and teacher of wilderness living skills out in Portland Oregon.Hand made from recycled natural fibres and fabrics, I like the eight panel version the most. Again, each hat is pretty unique, all made by hand and not off a production line, a nice touch.
All available from Urban Hunter.

6876 x Rohan

2011-06-05T17:01:00.003+01:00

A first look at the 6876 x Rohan collaboration, Kenneth Mackenzie told me all about this during a studio visit last year. This sees a newer version of the Sonora (a personal fave) with British outdoors brand Rohan. Pictures taken on location in Norfolk whilst shooting a film with Donald Milne. Available early 2012. Look out for a past and present feature on 6876 in the forthcoming Proper magazine.

The Great White Silence.

2011-05-31T10:38:00.033+01:00

Polar Exploration has given us some of the most iconic and inspirational imagery ever imaginable. The crews, the ambition, the outfits and sense of adventure. This isn't the first time I've mentioned it, it certainly won't be the last. Even in the modern day with the highest spec gear and equipment available, with advanced technology and communication it seems an unbelievable slog, striving for survival in the face of adversity and the most unforgiving of nature at it's most fierce. So it almost seems a preposterous thought that the likes of Scott and Shackleton were going off out into the unknown in hand made boots and wrapped in sheepskin all those years ago.
The BFI have restored Herbert Ponting's record of Captain Scott's tragic expedition to the South Pole for this year's London Film Festival which was the film to see, recently released at selected theatres, this, I'd imagine would be an awe-inspiring event in cinema. A hundred years ago the British Antarctic Expedition (1910-1913) led by the courageous Scott set out on its ill-fated race to the South Pole. Joining Scott on board the Terra Nova was official photographer and cinematographer and all round hero of One-ups' Herbert Ponting, the famous imagery captured all those years ago have fuelled our imagination for many years. Ponting filmed almost every aspect of the expedition: the scientific work, life in camp and of course the local wildlife - including the characterful Adélie penguins. This is one of the most humbling stories of history, as the Norwegian team led by Roald Amundsen pipped them to the most vital of posts, so near, yet so far. Captain Scotts tragic story left a lasting legacy for all in the ultimate battle between man and nature.
Most importantly, Ponting recorded the preparations for the assault on the Pole, giving us a real sense of the challenges faced by the expedition. In 1924 he re-edited it into this remarkable feature, complete with vivid tinting and toning. The BFI National Archive has restored the film; the alien beauty of the landscape is brought dramatically to life and the world of the expedition revealed in brilliant detail. Restored with exquisite tinting and toning which adds a new depth combined with added intenisty from a score by contemporary composer Simon Fisher Turner.
The Great White Silence, Directed by Herbert G Ponting, is currently showing in selected cinemas.
Watch trailer here. The Secrets of Scott's hut.

Gil Scott Heron.

2011-05-29T00:15:00.003+01:00

Pioneer, poet, expressionist, revolutionary, trendsetter. 1949-2011.

Bivouacking.

2011-05-27T18:43:00.017+01:00

I make no apologies for all the outdoor stuff I post on here, it's no fad for me, I love the look and feel of it, well, maybe not so much the feel when it comes to pitching up a tent dead high up on a rock face. The art of bivouacking - it looks pretty terrifying, the one time getting out of bed for a slash in the middle of the night aint happening. When thrill seeking is taken to the next level, in fact it's taken so high you have to spend the night there. Serious climbers aren't fazed by severe heights, what's extremely unnerving to you or I is a doddle to them as they take their excitement to the extreme. They've been doing it for years though, as the very recent picture from Canada's Sail Peak shows above, and the original photos from the Yosemite national park in the 60's.

Longline.

2011-05-23T21:00:00.001+01:00

I recently got my hands on this Heritage Research split colour Longline parka, in Navy and Apple British dry waxed Millerain. This is a corker, a limited edition, website exclusive in this two tone style, a really nice flattering cut to it too. Lined in contrasting cotton, just the right shape and size for the current unpredictable weather.

Outdoors, great.

2011-05-20T01:24:00.007+01:00

Old's cool, some great snaps from the Tärnaby mountains in 1977. Kitted out in the Arctic Fox. Pictures shamelessy borrowed from here.

Mountain Men.

2011-05-17T16:05:00.015+01:00

Just spotted these via the Garbstore , the coolest thing I've seen in ages. Highly collectible figures from Japanese label Mountain Research. Featuring historical and political revolutionaries Karl Marx, Chairman Mao, Vladimir Lenin and Henry David Thoreau decked out in classic 70s style hiking gear. Cooler than Serpico's shaggy sheepdog.

Recent Pickups.

2011-05-13T21:50:00.003+01:00

Not done one of these for a while, hence a few additions, starting out with the Universal Works Fell jacket. You'll know by now I'm into my foul weather wear, and as we're having April showers in May I'll get some good use out of this two tone Millerain version. I've got pretty much the same coat already and it's a fave. Now I know my pics are sexy, but that red really isn't as fruity as it looks.

Sneeze Magazine via the states, I picked these up from Vegas, I've not been there but it sounds good though, dunnit? it's that massive I have to stand at the top of the stairs and get whoever's down there to turn the pages for me. Like it though, I might stick Danny Trejo on the door to scare people.

Continuing the streety vibes with a Supreme ventile bell hat, love a good titfer me, this one took some finding.

Vera, meshspadrilles - clever eh? nice these, I just need to find a beach now, nearest one's Formby, anyone fancy giving us a lift when the rain stops?

Norse Projects Hector Nature cap, a cap? fuck me, what's happening here? I've not worn a cap for a million years. I think the panelled cap's are more acceptable to hide from the sun/babylon under, I've still got to tweak that peak a bit though.

Puma Dallas via Hanon, I'm not a big trainer wearer these days, but I really like these. They even come with an argyle scarf so I can pretend to be Ronnie Corbett/ASC.
Luggers, I've had some sort of Wallabee on my trotters since as far back as I can remember, working in a shoe shop helped. These are the proper pasty shoes - you either love or hate them.
But I can't think of any other shoe that's as comfy from new as these, ever. Thanks to Bob from Cork Grips who asked if I knew anywhere selling any, which in turn led me buying another pair of shoes I really don't need.

Issue one of Loaded for old times sake for a bin lid off eBay. When it actually was for grown ups, =a cool cover too, with our old chum Gary Oldman.

Kes, on Criterion, the inner geek in me is trying to fill the top shelf with Criterion dvds < click there there if you don't know what it is; when arguably my most favouritest film ever got a release I had to get it, even though I've already got it.

Two classic books no man should be without, it's amazing what you can get on eBay when you're bored and have about six quid burning a hole in your Paypal account, the Good Doc's book is thicker than the combined cast from that Only Way is Essex thing. Will take me a while to get through that one.

EG's Ground jacket from a couple of seasons back, looks better with the snap off hood, snapped off. I actually really like the current seasons floral print one, but it's clearly better suited to Bermuda than Bramhall.

Finally, Albam's 'foreman' blazer in raspberry, not pink, not bad this, a bit like what an old lady would go shopping/shooting in, but I like it, the colour's probably the best bit.

Dunlop Volley, perfect for the coming weather I reckon, the more beaten up the better. I love the shape of these.

Icons of our time - Ken Loach.

2011-05-11T00:45:00.008+01:00

Ken Loach, multi award winning filmmaker, socialist, pacifist, football fan. Born in Warwickshire in 1936, the son of an electrician, he attended grammar school, did two years in the Royal Air Force and studied law at Oxford University, where he became President of the Dramatic Society. Loach started out in front of the cameras, but swiftly moved into directing, starting out in theatre before moving to the BBC as a trainee television director. Heavily involved in politics, Loach supports the Socialist Resistance, is a patron of several charities including the homeless charity Doorway in his native Nuneaton. He recently made the news voicing his support for the Australian publisher/whistle blower Julian Assange of the wiki leaks scandal in late 2010.
He was awarded a BAFTA fellowship in 2006, but declined an OBE in 1977, in later years explaining: "It's all the things I think are despicable: patronage, deferring to the monarchy and the name of the British Empire, which is a monument of exploitation and conquest." Loach to me, is the people's director, literally. He makes powerful films with a political point. Loach is a supporter and shareholder for his local side Bath City of the Blue Square Premier. ( crikey, we're playing them next season)

We have had some great filmmakers in the UK, Mike Leigh for his character studies and realism, Alan Clarke for his social realism spring to mind. Ken Loach gets it spot on. Challenging, bleak, humorous, heartfelt, influential, direct and emotional. He is a genius in that respect, if you don't recognise the actors, you could be forgiven for thinking they were even acting in the first place, the same could be said of the script. Using a close working relationship with his scriptwriters, his films often rely on a clever script, so cunning you'd think it were unscripted. Filmed often using unknown actors, usually with a genuine connection to the subject they appear in. He gets the very best out of his actors, many have gone on to bigger things. This is all part of the genuine realism and naturalistic approach -a trademark style of all of his films. Give me a good indie drama over the crappy CGI infested shite at the multiplexes any day and every day.
Loach has produced some of the most memorable work of all his peers, shunning Hollywood in the process. Tackling tough subjects along the way, across the country and beyond, be it the miners strike, homelessness and unemployment, important social issues are a recurring theme in his films. During the 80's he went back to his documentarian roots and produced several telling documentaries, several of which were deemed controversial, banned or withdrawn. Kes (1969) one of the greatest films ever if you ask me, widely regarded as a masterpiece. The best thing to happen to the town of Barnsley other than their promotion to the Premiership.
'An Eagle for an Emperor, a Gyrfalcon for a King:
a Peregrine for a Prince, & a Saker for a Knight,
a Merlin for a lady, a Goshawk for a Yeoman,
a Sparrowhawk for a Priest, a Musket for a holy water Clerk & a Kestrel for a Knave.'
-- the boke of St Albans 1486
This is one of those you can watch at any given time, or if it's on the telly you will end up sat with it - despite it being on the shelf, is arguably his most famous film. Loach came to prominence with the heartbreaking Cathy Come Home, a downward spiral of homelessness and a system that does not work, the charity Shelter was founded just a week after it's frst screening in 1965.

Raining Stones (1993) set in a Manchester estate, shows the daily struggles of a poor couple trying to raise the money for for their child's first communion dress. I love that film, it's as real as it gets, spot on. Written by Jim Allen who's from the Langley estate in which is was filmed on location. Bruce Jones, who most would know typecast as a former Corrie actor, does a star turn in his feature film debut. Raining Stones and Riff Raff (1991) are tied together by Ricky Tomlinson, who will unintentionally have you in stitches in both films, a great drama based in London following different folk from different backgrounds just trying to earn an honest day's wage. Exposing the poor living conditions of the poor class and basic labours rights, and it's got Willy Ross in it.

I once met Bruce Jones (who's from the same town) in a town centre pub, as I approached, he was pretty stand-offish, politely telling me without hesitation that 'Les' was on a hanger at Granada studios and he was just having a quiet pint or three. I mentioned I wasn't too fussed by the localish set soap nor in particular the Battersby clan he was part of, but I was a fan of his work in independent British cinema, notably Raining Stones and Shane Meadows' 24/7 were mentioned, his face lit up. I wasn't just another sycophantic soap bore ignorantly expecting him to answer to his screen name or churn out a tacky one liner, I wanted to talk about the stuff he was actually most proud of and his earlier television work. From looking like he originally wanted to tell me to piss off, to then offering me a pint, as he happily nattered about working with the likes of Ken Loach and Bob Hoskins and sitting behind Nicolas Cage at the Cannes Film Festival. It was a surreal, but great little experience, an interesting guy with a story to tell. Raining Stones is an excellent drama, and they should be proud of it. The strange casting of former Premiership footballer surprised many in Looking for Eric (2009) as a football obsessed postman turns to his hero as his life around him is descending into chaos.

Tough and thought provoking political issues are tackled head on in Hidden Agenda (1990) set during the troubles in Northern Ireland. After the murder of an American civil rights activist, it unravels into a political conspiracy, exposing corruption at the highest level government, inspired by the RUC's alleged 'shoot to kill' policy. Land And Freedom (1995) the Spanish civil war epic posthumously told from the perspective of a recently deceased elderly Liverpudlian communist in flashback, narrative form, who went to join the fight against fascism with the International Brigade against Franco's dictatorship in mid 1930's Spain. More recent work has included The Wind That Shakes the Barley (2006) an Irish civil war drama which won the Palm d'Or. An important and accurate historical study of a social uprising, expressing themes from the period as opposed to the situation itself. Loach's most recent film Route Irish (2010) tackles the recent Iraq war and private security contractors coming to terms with the brutality and the exploitation of modern war. I could go on and on about Ken Loach films all day, you will have seen at least one regardless, but if you haven't watch one, then you'll watch another, and another, he probably wouldn't like this, but he's a national institution.

Sixteen Films, Ken Loach IMDb
Ken Loach - Director selected filmography.
2010 Route Irish
2009 Looking for Eric
2007 It's a Free World...
2006 The Wind That Shakes the Barley
2005 McLibel (documentary)
2005 Tickets
2004 Ae Fond Kiss...
2002 Sweet Sixteen
2001 The Navigators
2000 Bread and Roses
1998 My Name Is Joe
1996 Carla's Song
1995 Land and Freedom
1994 Ladybird Ladybird
1993 Raining Stones
1991 Riff-Raff
1990 Hidden Agenda
1986 Fatherland
1985 Which Side Are You On?
1980 The Gamekeeper
1979 Black Jack
1969 Kes
1966 Cathy Come Home
1967 Poor Cow
1964 Diary of a Young Man (TV series)

Heritage Research Exclusive Longline.

2011-05-09T01:50:00.010+01:00

I've just stumbled across this from the good folk at Heritage Research, a web exclusive of the coveted Longline Parka. This season's is the best version yet if you ask me, and this two tone edition in black and red and apple and navy dry wax look spot on. With all the details you'd expect from what I think is one of the best British labels out there at the minute. Both limited to just forty pieces too.

War Field Wear Research.

2011-05-04T12:25:00.006+01:00

War Field Wear Research is another collection from ......Research who's modern and quirky take on classic garments is always right up my street, the length they go to and details are superb.
Spotted via The Garbstore where this will soon be available, some of this collection looks really cool.